Cycling up the North Island’s East Cape has been a highlight of my kiwi adventure. I sacrificed days out of my way to go there, and the detour has been worth it. The riding is remote and off the beaten track. The travel is relatively isolated and secluded.
Traffic circulation is light. Though I encountered the occasional logging truck or semi, there was usually enough shoulder to allow big trucks to pass safely.
Staying clear of the tourist and backpackers traditional trade routes by riding about 330 km along Highway 35 from Gisborne to Opotiki took me right through Maori heartland scattered with indigenous villages of friendly locals. Often I heard more Maori than English being spoken in local stores and cafes.
The mostly coastal cycling route wanders in and out from the shore through hills, forests, and among farms. Older buildings and homes in the towns and villages along the way make the ride a step back in time.
Cook’s Cove
Located just over the hill just to the south of Tolaga Bay.
Captain James Cook, noted English sailor and explorer, anchored his ship the Endeavour during their 1769 circumnavigation of New Zealand. He and his crew traded with local Maori living in the area.
Early morning I followed the path I’d scouted the day before and clambered up the hill in the night by the beam of my headlamp. Working my way up a steep hill through a stand of trees and on to a paddock, I crossed the light brush and grassland that led to the edge of the bluffs overlooking the Pacific. The beam of my light occasionally glanced upon clusters of sheep bedded in the grass under short trees.
Gaining the top of the high cliffs facing the ocean, I had a perfect view of the sheltered inlet.
Perched high on the weatherbeaten cliffs overlooking the Pacific, dawn treated me to a mottled sunrise of clouds and gray skies. Camera in hand, I began clicking away.
Tolaga Bay
High on the misty, windswept bluffs, the eastern shore opens up to vast vistas of the Pacific Ocean to the horizon from the north and south. The bay is the location of the longest wharf in New Zealand at 660 meters. The concrete structure served as a shipping point for wool and other farming product as there were no road into the area.
Te Araroa
Climbing to the ridge and swinging west, I was able to capture a last glimpse of the bay along Te Araroa before kicking over the top and descending to the west along Hick’s Bay. Strong winds from the previous night’s storm made me work for every inch. Not only did I have to pedal to go down hill, I had to put some effort into it as well.
Te Taha
My second to the last day transiting the East Camp ended with heavy winds but beautiful sunset. Battling a fierce headwind the entire day, I was able to take in a few moments of beauty of the day as the sun sunk below the horizon. Stiff winds began to decrease, hinting the promise of a better following day. Bunking with loggers working the forests up high, I fell fast asleep after such an adventurous day.
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