Inching up the final reaches on the approach to the top of the pass, I knew the end was near. A few more minutes laboring over the pedals and I reached the summit. It was 2:15 pm. Four hours and 1170 meters of climbing on mostly gravel road had put me at the top of Danseys Pass. There was nothing to greet me but the howl of gusts blasting along windswept ridges and heavy blue skies overhead. The elation in knowing a lot of downhill awaited coursed through my veins. The hard climbing for the day was over.
The Promised Land Just Ahead
Four hours of climbing on mostly gravel roads from Ranfurly and Naseby fueled by Whitman’s chocolate bars, Gatorade and a pretty decent tailwind put me on top of the Kakanui mountains. Making the final push, I could see “The Promised Land” just ahead.
As I glanced back over my shoulder, there were mountains as far as I could see. I could trace my line up through the twisting gorge that paid out on the upper reaches of the pass.
The Danseys Pass Hotel, where I’d stopped $3 for a Short Black (a double espresso), some eight and a half kilometers back down the trail was long gone now.
On Top of the Danseys Pass
Danseys Pass provides passage over the Kakanui Mountains between Central Otago and North Otago on the South Island that consists of riding mostly on unsealed road. Elevation at the pass is 935 meters.
Once on top, besides the whipping wind, the first thing I noticed was the striking difference in vegetation. Long grass and rocky outcroppings dominated the windward or southwestern Central Otago side of the mountains while greener hillsides and skirted by lush valleys made up the northwest into Waitaki Valley proper.
The Kakanui Mountains aren’t the tallest or most difficult mountains I’ve assailed, but the climb over Danseys Pass kept me huffing a bit. Regular fluid intake and periodic “1-minute breaks,” plus a sweet tailwind kept me going to the top.
Mountains as Far as the Eye Can See
Aussies Slogging Up the Backside
Easing down the steep gravel track, I happened up an Australian couple was grinding their way up the steeper backside. They’d been pushing a headwind the whole day. The woman stopped her bike in front of mine. She looked worked. Momentarily her husband pulled up alongside.
“How far to the summit?”
“Maybe six or seven kilometers.”
“How’s it look?”
“It doesn’t get any easier. In fact, the climbing is much steeper, much steeper. It looks like the bulldozer driver cutting the road forgot about making gradual switchbacks and just made a beeline up the side of the hill for the summit.”
She shook her head in despair in knowing the struggle that lays ahead.
Descent to the Coast
Crossover to the other side and see what you can find. The journey over the Kakanui range was worth the effort. Good things await those that go. In addition to a couple of hours of downhill, my efforts rewarded me with beautiful views of the mountains on my way Into Waitaki Valley.
A couple of hours of downhill intermixed with a few climbs had me back on a sealed road and rolling through dairy and sheep farms near Duntroon looking for a place to pitch my tent, cook some grub, and call it a day. See you out there. Cheers.
hi johnny,
nice write up on danseys. we also stopped at the hotel for coffee.
in the gorge before town we rented a small cabin. rain was coming
but we had a beautiful day just as you did. the danseys pass road
was the highlight of our trip.
Ric and K,
Good to hear from you guys. Yes, Danseys Pass was one of my highlights cycling in New Zealand as well. It’s those out of the way places that are the best.
Annie, Mia and I are all back in Shanghai dreaming of new adventures. Mia is back in school and doing well. We’re all still riding our bikes.
It was great meeting you guys and hope you are doing well. Stay in touch and we will too.
Cheers from Shanghai, Johnny, Annie and Mia