The miles and chips are adding up are beginning to add up on the Divide with adventure. With each journey, my riding style continues to evolve. Each foray over the horizon teaches me something new in the art of bike travel. At the end of each ride, I usually end up tweaking this or that. Adventure cycling is a never-ending journey of not only the land but of the self and one’s gear as well.
As of late, my bike travel has been about slowing down and getting into the experience of the ride and not so much the distance traveled. I’ve become much more focused on the quality of the ride and the places visited while paying less attention my average speed or distance covered.
Reducing the daily travel distance creates more “white space” for the serendipity of travel to occur. The shift in traveling style also generated a few component changes on the bike and kit as well.
Reducing Electronics
Digitally, I’m dropping the Garmin Edge 800, which was a legacy device from a previous road bike. Eliminating screens to watch enables me to focus more on the “feel” of the ride. For example, if I “feel” like I’m in the right gear or I “feel” I’m making good time, then I am. Plus, it’s just one less device to charge at the end of the day.
I’m keeping the InReach Explorer and iPhone with GPS apps for navigational and communication purposes. I’m purposely keeping both screens while riding to avoid distractions and only check the map periodically to make sure I haven’t drifted too far off course.
Shorter Daily Rides
Unless the route absolutely requires riding farther, I’ve been keeping my daily mileage around 70-100 km to keep a fairly leisurely pace. Moreover, spinning easy allows for more time to enjoy the view, take pictures, and meet people along the way.
A more relaxed pace allows for more relaxed riding. A more relaxed riding at a slower pace has allowed me to employ flat pedals in lieu of clipless pedals, which has opened the door for more comfortable footwear on and off the bike.
Flat Pedals and FiveFingers
Loving my Vibram FiveFingers, I’ve dropped the clipless pedals and am going with flats. Earlier this spring, I fitted the Divide with a pair of Specialized Boom Slang platform pedals to see if they’d work out. After a short transition period, I’m able to wear my FiveFingers not only off the bike but pedaling throughout the day as well.
To get the most comfortable fit, I replaced the Boom Slang’s original pins with a set of shorter RaceFace pins that still give me plenty of grip without creating pressure points on the soles of my feet.
After doing a half a dozen short rides in the FiveFingers and on the flat pedals, the first big test was to be trekking the Great Divide. Short rides around Shanghai were promising. Though I was only on our Great Divide journey before having to return to Shanghai, riding on the flats with my Vibram’s worked out okay.
Dropping the clipless pedals was as much about mindset as it was about technical efficiency. For me, pedaling on flat pedals is less efficient and forces me to slow down a bit. And the slight reduction in speed tends to shift my mental focus from the physical and technical aspects of the ride to surroundings of where I’m traveling. Consequently, the change boils down to sacrificing a bit of efficiency for comfort and quality of the ride.
I still find myself wanting in the hills, but more thoroughly enjoy the ride overall. For now, the flats and finger shoes are staying, though my clipless pedals and SPD shoes are not far away.
Dynamo and Lights
I’ve added a Schmidt SON Disc dynamo to keep the iPhone, and if need be, the InReach Explorer charged up and running day to day.
An E-Werk dynamo powered supply unit coupled with a cache battery provides a constant flow of electricity to the iPhone or Explore GPS tracker. Whenever I have access to an electrical outlet, I charge up all the devices, camera batteries, and cache battery to keep the devices topped off.
In addition to the SON Disc dynamo, I added a Schmidt Edelux II headlamp and taillight to forgo using the Cygolite Centurion and battery. The Edelux’s lamp isn’t as bright as the Centurion but it’s enough and frees me up from having to carry another charger and battery.
Tire Popping Troubles
The new wheel with the SON Disc dynamo came with an updated version of the venerable Cliffhanger, which immediately proved to be troublesome. Every time I took the bike out for a ride, the front tire blew off the rim and popped the inner tube. I even popped two inner tubes installing the tire and tube on the new rim.
At first, I thought I was loosing my touch and was somehow pinching the inner tube during installation. But upon closer inspection, the Velocity rim was causing the blowouts. The lower profile sidewalls on the new style Cliffhanger rim wouldn’t properly seat the bead on the Schwalbe Mondial tire. As a result, the tire pressure would force the tire off of the rim and tear the inner tube at the valve, which was locked in the rim with a knurled nut.
29-inch tubes tend to be a scarce commodity in Shanghai, and the rest of China for that matter. 27.5-inch is the norm. Rarely, if ever do I run across another 29er. Most bike shops don’t carry them, and those that do only keep two or three in stock. The Divide’s six tire-popping episode depleted my tube stocks, requiring me to replenish my supply from via the homeland.
Seeing I was flying to San Francisco to begin our summer vacation in North America before starting our ride on the Great Divide, I spoke with Neil Flock, proprietor of the Cycle Monkey located across the bay in Richmond, to see if he could build me another wheel with the SON Disc Dynamo.
New Hoops
Neil and this team at Cycle Monkey were more than willing to oblige. He was well aware of newly designed Cliffhanger’s the bead seating issue and recommended I go with a set of burly Dutch made 36-hole Ryde Andra 35’s, similar to the Cliffhangers and specifically designed for heavy touring.
In addition to the new rims, Neil also serviced the Rohloff hub and installed a new set of axle bearings, which were beginning to chirp a bit after about 30,000 km on the road.
With about a 1000 km on the new wheels, the Andra 35’s are doing great. No issues or concerns so far. I’ll keep you posted as the kilometers add up.
Klamper Disc Brakes from Paul Component Engineering
On a lark, I decided to swap out the Divide’s TRP Spyke cable disc brakes for a set of Paul Component Engineering’s Klamper disc calipers and long pull Love Levers. In addition to the new brakes, I also added a new set of Jagwire cables and cable housings to boot. The end result is a clean look and decisive, quiet braking.
There was nothing wrong with the TRPs, which I highly recommend. I just like the sweet, clean look of the billet the aluminum calipers and brake levers. Plus, they’ll accept the same disc pads as the Spyke calipers so I don’t have to purchase any additional replacements.
The Klamper calipers use a single actuating piston while the Spyke uses dual pistons. Similar to the Spykes’ breaking power, the Klampers are strong and silent. Paul states that it takes about three rides to properly “bed” the brakes, which seems true. By my third time out, the brakes were clamping down on the discs like a pitbull on a poodle.
So far, there hasn’t been any squeaking or squawking, but I have yet to get them good and wet. I’ll do a follow-up after I’ve gotten a few more miles on them under some heavy breaking situations in wetter and dustier conditions.
A Funky New Saddle
I love the Brooks Cambium C17 save for one niggle: I hated getting it wet in the rain and would always put a cover on it when the wet stuff started to fall. After reading a few positive reviews of the Tioga Twin Tail Spyder, I decided to give it a shot. It looks little weird, even down right uncomfortable in fact, but rides very well.
After about 2000 km on it, I’m quite pleased with its performance. Coupled with a pair of chamois underwear under my riding shorts, I can ride all day in relative comfort and have incurred no saddle sores to speak of (knock on wood).
When it rains, I just wipe it off with my hand and away I go. No cover required. The unconventional looks of the saddle draw a lot of attention. To the uninitiated, it seems to resemble some sort of medieval torture device. After I explain that it’s actually a quite comfortable saddle, most appear unconvinced.
Chris King Bottom Bracket
After about 30,000 km on the Co-Motion Divide, I was beginning to notice a little lateral play in the stock FSA bottom bracket. So as a preventative measure before returning to Shanghai, I decide to spring for a new Chris King Threat Fit, which should go nicely with the Divide’s Chris King headset and ensure many miles of riding pleasure.
Against the Wind
To duck the wind a bit and to add an additional riding position to the Divide’s cockpit, I added a Jones Gnarwal mono bar a few months ago, which is working great. It’s pretty sweet being able to get down and quasi-aero when facing a vicious headwind, or stretch out and give your arms and shoulder a break when cruising along.
Truth be told, I would rather ride in the rain than against a stiff headwind. The Gnarwal provides a little relief by allowing me to get my body down into a more aero position when cycling against headwinds or to change up and rest a bit when I’m pedaling along.
Finishing Touches
Rounding out the upgrades to the Divide, I installed a Thomson stem and seat post, which is just mainly for looks. The FSA stem and Co-Motion seat post were fine, but I thought, “What the heck? When you’re booked on the Titanic, you might as well go first class.”
With added accouterments, the Divide continues to provide me with kilometer after kilometer pure riding enjoyment. If something doesn’t work out, I can always go back or change. Isn’t that what life’s all about?
Please let me know what you think. Comments are appreciated. Cheers, Johnny
Great review of your upgrades to the Devide! You will have to let me know when you are back in the area, it would be great to visit with you.
Deo,
Thank you much for the kind words. Hope all is well in your neck of the woods. I’ll definitely drop you a line when we’re passing through. Please say hello to Holly.
Best regards, Johnny
very complete walk through my friend . This trip will be an evolution. Looking forward to your writings
Ken
Ken,
Thank you much, good buddy. Seems like I’m always tinkering with my kit, which keeps me busy.
All the best,
Johnny
Johnny:
Are you still running the Marathon Mondials? Still liking them?
Can you tell me how they do on wet pavement?
John,
Yes, I’m still running the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires, size 28 x 2.00, and they’re running great. The 2.00-inch tires, which are pretty beefy for road tires, are good on dirt and gravel roads while still rolling well on paved surfaces, wet or dry. I’ve done some large descents (2,000 meters or so) at about 25-35 kph in the rain on wet pavement while in Taiwan last spring without issue. The bike always felt in control and wasn’t wanting to wash out on the turns. The Mondials are a stiffer, heavier tire, which helps prevent punctures and other road damage. If you want a quicker tire, you may want to consider going with a narrower tire, such as the 28 X 1.75 or so. Over the past two years, I’ve put over 20,000 km on them and have only had two flats. Highly recommend.
Best regards,
Johnny
Great post! Always enjoy your site. A couple thoughts:
-Interesting about the new Cliffhangers. I run them with Marathon Supremes (40c) and have never had an issue. Maybe wider tires cause the problem? It’s good to know it’s an issue.
-27.5 tire size is standard in China? Is this the same as 650B? I’m surprised it isn’t 26″. Again, interesting to note.
-Have you ever packed your bike in a 62″ ‘airline standard’ size bag using the S&S couplers? Do the 29er wheels fit easily or are they a bit of a faff to pack?
-I toured in Sweden a bit with the Jones bar but I missed the vertical hand position I get on hoods or bar ends. I’m back to drop bars but may try the Jones again.
– I love the philosophy about not focusing on miles/kilometers. I find it hard to do but a slower more relaxed pace would likely be much more enjoyable.
Thanks again for the posts!
Al,
The new style Cliffhangers have a lower sidewall which prevents the tire’s bead from fully engaging and would allow the tire to slip off of the rim due to the air pressure in the tire. When I brought the issue up with Neil at the Cycle Monkey, he was well aware of the issue with the new style Cliffhangers and was able to warranty the new style rim.
The 27.5 or 650B is pretty much the standard mountain bike wheel size in China as Giant bicycles use them almost exclusively for their mountain bikes and they are the biggest bike seller in China and pretty much all of Asia for that matter. I’ve only seen the 26″ wheels on the lower end bicycles. There are a few 29ers out there but they are few and far between.
29-inch inner tubes are not widely available in China, so after my tire popping episodes with the new Cliffhanger rim, I burned through my tube supply and had to stock up when passing through the U.S. this summer.
The old style Cliffhangers were great. I really liked them. It would have been nice to have kept them but it wasn’t to be. The Ryde Andra 35 rims, which are very similar to the old style Cliffhangers, are doing great. No issues there. The Andra rims are doing fine.
I’ve only broken the frame down a couple of times using the S&S couplers, which was when I was flying on an American airline. For the past year and a half, I’ve just been putting the Divide in a bike box, as most Asian airlines aren’t charging extra for bike boxes like the American airlines are. The times I did break the frame down, I was able to get the bike on as regular checked luggage without any issues or extra fees.
I agree totally. Getting a set of bars that you like is key, just like the bike, the saddle, etc. If drop bars are working for you, I say go with it. Regardless of what gear others tout or use, if it’s not working for you, you’re not going to enjoy your ride. It’s your comfort and efficiency that counts. I say go what works for you. It’s all good.
I’ve done a couple of rides now with only the iPhone 6 and the Explore GPS communicator/tracker and both screens blank. It’s pretty liberating not looking down to see my speed or distance all of the time. I just ride how I feel, regardless of how fast I’m going. I’m really liking the flat Boom Slang pedals and Vibram FiveFingers as well. I know I’m losing pedaling efficiency on the hills but I’m gaining much more in overall comfort and achieving a more relaxed traveling style. Both changes have been good moves so far.
Thank you much for the input. Much appreciated.
Best regards,
Johnny
My Divide came from Co-Motion with the new CliffHangers. After a few weeks of losing tires (and destroying the bead on one), I took it back to the dealer. They admitted they’d had problems as well, called Velocity, and Velocity rebuilt the wheels with Dyads (w/ reflective rims).
I’ve since had no problems, even running a 2.1″ Racing Ralph on the rear and a 2.3″ Knobby Nic on the front. Looks kind of odd, but felt very solid, even doing single-track. Now that I’m back at work I run Marathon Supreme 29×2.0, again with no issues.
Pete,
It’s too bad about the new design of the Velocity Cliffhangers. I really liked the original ones. When the front tire began blowing off the new rim, I thought is was me and I’d somehow pinched the tube. But after several blowouts and further investigation, it was clearly the lower profile of the new Cliffhanger rim that was not allowing the tire’s bead to fully seat in the groove.
The 2.0-inch wheel size is about right for me for the type of riding I do. The tires work well both on and off the pavement.
I too am really happy with my new rims as well. The Ryde Andra 35’s are very similar to the old style Cliffhangers and doing well. I’m heading out this morning to ride across the Australian Outback on the Stuart Highway. I’ll post on how the bike and rims are doing.
Thank you for the comments and insights. Best regards,
Johnny
Johnny,
Thank you so much for your reviews and thoughts. I have a Co-Motion Pangea that I enjoy so much. However, I am not as pleased with the TRP brake setup (front wheel) as the tolerance space between the brake arm and spokes has occasionally caused the two to collide, especially if I stand up and pedal (causing the front wheel to flex a bit). Wondered if you had any issues with the “ting-ting” sound as the spokes make contact with the front brake region? I noticed that you had switched out the brakes to Paul’s, though you commented that all was well with the TRP.
Any thoughts?
Kevin,
Yes, I agree. There isn’t much clearance between the front brake caliper and the spokes on the front wheel, which caused me a bit of concern when I installed my new wheel with the Schmidt SON Dynamo. There wasn’t any contact but the minimal gap was too close for comfort. I solved the issue by backing the caliper’s left and right disc pads all way out, then loosening the caliper mounting bolts and readjusting the caliper on the posts to gain more clearance from the spokes. I then retightened the caliper and readjusted the left and right pads. After the readjustment, there was about a 1/8″ to 3/16″ gap between the caliper and the wheel spokes.
I think the TRP Spyke brakes are excellent and still highly recommend them. They are strong and much quieter than the noisy Avid BB7’s on my Salsa Fargo. The Paul’s Klamper brakes are excellent as well. The only reason (which isn’t much of one) why I switched was because I really liked the billet construction of the Paul’s levers and calipers. In fact, the TRP calipers may be a little more efficient than the Paul’s as both discs actuate while only one does on the Klamper’s while the other is fixed.
I still have my TRPs and would not hesitate to put them back on the Divide if the Klampers don’t work out.
Hope this helps. Please let me know of the recentering the caliper helps you get the needed clearance you’re looking for. As I mentioned, I encountered a very similar issue with mine on the Divide.
Thank you for the comments and best regards,
Johnny
I also recently went to a Jones loop bar (Ironically, the shop that sold me the bike says they sold another divide at about the same time, but with the jones bar. This owner just contacted the shop about swapping it out for drop bars at about the same time I moved to a Jones bar). Overall, I love it. I did start with the ESI extra-chunky grips, but ended up with the Ergon GC1’s. These worked great on my recent tour, and I absolutely love the Jones bar.
My one concern is a mirror. I’ve been using a take-a-look, which of course works great but looks dorky and is very inconvenient. Mounting/unmounting them whenever I get on and off the bike is tiresome.
So I’m looking at the Mirrcle mountain, as well as the Venzo. What mirror are you using, and would you recommend it?
Pete,
I really like the Jones Loop H-Bar and have been riding one for the last three years. The sweepy bars and extra chunky hand grips give me plenty of hand positions so the riding is comfortable. It’s gotten even better since I’ve added the Jones Gnarwal mono bar that allows me to ride in an aero position to rest and duck the wind.
I’m using a B-Twin rear view mirror that mounts in the end of the handlebar, which is very similar to the Mirrcle Mountain rear view mirror. The mirror provides excellent visibility to the rear in both the upright and aero postures, which is essential here in Asia. The only downside is being on the end of the handlebar makes the mirror a little vulnerable. I’ve broken two over the past three years and keep a spare at home. In fact, I originally had a Mirrcle Mountain on both my Fargo and the Divide, which a guy broke off near Dunhuang when he tipped my bike over. Recommend the Mirrcle Mountain rear view mirror.
Cheers,
Johnny
When I went to the Jones bar I added Paul Canti Levers (brand new version), and they improve feel and stopping power dramatically. They also look great.
Pete,
I’m loving the Paul levers and Klamper brakes as well — quality gear, and they do look good. They’re a nice addition to the Divide. Enjoy
Cheers,
Johnny
Thanks for the great info throughout your website. After having several traffic-related accidents and ending up hospitalized more often than my wife, kid (or I) prefer, I am re-assessing biking in general. Shedding speed for nature and pleasure. At 52, probably about time.
I am pouring through your set-up and have been researching for the last couple months. Thinking about the divide but with a pinion. Similar set up to yours otherwise.
Is there anything else, if you were starting from scratch on this, you would have done from the beginning? I am at the measurement stage and outfitting it. Looking at doing the upper part of the Divide this summer.
Again, much appreciated!
Brian
Brian,
My only regret is not beginning to travel by a bike sooner. Otherwise, I’m pretty pleased with my path. I began bike travel on a full suspension mountain bike, the a Salsa Fargo, then eventually upgrading to to the Co-Motion Divide Rohloff I have now. I began touring with a trailer and the full suspension mountain bike, which was okay but a little awkward with trains, airplanes, and busses. I was just starting out and wasn’t fully committed to long distance adventure cycling. When got the Forgo, I set it up with racks and panniers, a traditional touring set up, which worked pretty good, but I longed for a bike with a Rohloff hub, which led me to selling the Fargo and purchasing the Co-Motion Divide Rohloff and Gates Carbon Belt Drive that I’m currently riding and very satisfied with today.
I like the concept of the Pinion drive and would consider purchasing a bike equipped with one if I didn’t already own the Divide Rohloff. I believe Pinion has made improvements to their initial gear box and is now offering a couple of models to choose from. If you go that route, I would find a good, reliable frame maker, such as Co-Motion, who will do a good job building the frame with the gear box. That’s my primary reason for choosing the Co-Motion Divide Rohloff, which is completely built around the speed hub and not some jury-rigged add-on. Co-Motion bikes aren’t cheap, but they’re good. “Buy once, cry once,” I say, and with over 35,000 km on the bike, I’ve never had a bit of trouble. Do it right the first time and you’ll get a bike that will last you a lifetime and carry you anywhere you’re willing to pedal it.
I just completed a two-month 5,000 km solo trek from Hobart at the tip of Tasmania across the desolate Australian Outback to Darwin at the top of Northern Territory without a single issue with the Divide, with the Rohloff Hub and Gates Carbon Belt performing flawlessly.
With either a Pinion gear box or a Rohloff Hub, I high recommend getting a Gates CDX Carbon Belt Drive, which in my opinion is far superior to a traditonal steel chain.
Riding comfort is key. You may want to consider a Jones Loop H-Bar, which offers more hand and riding positions than straight or drop bars. I’m not a big fan of the butterfly style touring bars.
Light is right. The less you can travel with, the purer, cleaner, and more pleasant the riding experience. My bike and gear for the Australian trek weighed only 33 kg, not including food and water. Pedaling a lighter set up all day long is easier than a fully laden rig, especially when climbing. I’m using a handlbar bag for my clothes, a frame bag for tools, repair parts, electronics, and am still running a rear rack where I’m using small front Ortlieb panniers to carry my camping gear in one, and cook kit, medical, inner tubes, and spare tire in the other. I’m pretty happy with the set up, which has served me well on several long rides.
Thank you for visiting my site and the kind words, much appreciated. If I can be of further assistance, please shoot me a note.
Best regards,
Johnny
So strange. This summer my wife and I rode from Seattle to San Francisco on our co-motion tandem. We stopped by Cycle Minkey to pick up spare belts and oil for the Rohloff. I noticed an Orange Co-motion with a very strange seat and took a picture of it. Know I know it was your bike!
I often ride Brooks C17 in the wet and have had no problems. In fact, that is way I switched from the b17. I’m curious what problem you experienced.
Ryan,
Yes, that was my bike. I was running a Brooks Cambium C17, which I really liked except for it getting soaked while riding in the rain. I don’t think it was a big issue but I just didn’t like riding with a wet saddle. So on a lark, I put on the unconventional looking Tioga Spyder, which is constructed of some sort of a flexible nylon or plastic material and is impervious to water.
With a decent pair of chamois riding shorts, the Spyder is very comfortable and had given me no issues, even after riding 5000 km across Australia from Hobart at the southern tip of Tasmania to the Darwin at the Northern tip of Australia’s Northern Territory. It was a great journey and the Tioga performed exceedingly well. I had no saddle sores the entire way.
I highly recommend the Brooks C17 and still have mine and may reinstall it on the Divide should the mood strike me. It’s an excellent saddle as well. I like them both.
Last summer when you saw my bike, I was on my way to ride the Great Divide (which was cut short due to my riding partner having a family emergency) and was having Neil and his team at Cycle Monkey put some new hoops on my Divide. I had had a Schmidt SON dynamo previously installed on a Velocity Cliffhanger rim and was having trouble with rim holding tires on, which were continually blowing off. The low profile on the new rim design did not allow the bead of the Schwalbe Mondial tires to fully seat, which ended up being a design flaw and required replacement.
Neil swapped out the Velocity rims for a set of Ryde Andra 35’s, which after 7000+ km have been trouble free. In addition, he installed a Edelux II head and tail lamp on the Divide, so I could ride at night battery free — which came in handy crossing the Australian Outback, as the temperatures were hitting 42 degrees Celsius in the day.
To avoid the intense heat and wind, I was getting up at 0200 and riding until 0900-1000 before it got too hot and the winds kicked up. It was an awesome journey and the new hoops, dynamo, and lighting worked out great, as did the Divide. I transited the Australian continent without a single mechanical or puncture the entire way (knock on wood).
Currently, I’m doing shorter rides near Shanghai, but planning a trip along the northern route of the Silk Road across the Takalamakan Desert and up into the Tian Shan Mountains in the Western Xinjiang province of China, where I’m going with the current set up I used in Australia, to include the Tioga Spyder. It should be a great adventure.
Best regards and happy riding,
Johnny