Check out my long-term review of the Co-Motion Divide at https://johnnyisaak.com/co-motion-divide-rohloff-a-long-term-review/
In my ever-evolving search for the “perfect” trekking bike, I finally took the plunge and purchased a Co-Motion Divide Rohloff late last spring before departing on two-month cycling odyssey through central, western and southwestern China this past summer. I took delivery of the new Divide a couple of weeks ago upon returning from the Middle Kingdom and have used the new bike as my daily commuter and primary form of transportation, where I’ve put a little over 500 kilometers on it, traveling over the pavement, gravel and some single track. Here are my first impressions:
IN SEARCH OF THE “PERFECT BEAST”
As a burgeoning cycling traveler, this is my fourth year of doing long-distance cycling trips in the U.S. and abroad, plus commuting back and forth to work every day come rain, shine, sleet or snow. With each journey and daily commute, my riding style has evolved and I’ve learned more and more about what to look for in a long-range trekking bike. Beginning with a road bike and then working through a couple of mountain bikes, I’ve decided that the best riding platform for me is a “go-anywhere, multi-terrain expeditionary bicycle” capable of carrying a heavy load day in and day out while covering many kilometers on tarmac or handily negotiating gravel, rocky roads, single track, or anything else I happen to come across, wet or dry. On the road or off the road, I want a bike that will take me confidently to the remotest points of the cycling globe without issues or problems and bring me home again. I want a rugged bike that can take a beating and still keep rolling, that is fairly simple to repair, and will give me many years and kilometers of riding pleasure. Though I’ve been riding an exceptionally well-performing built up Salsa Fargo that I like very much, something wasn’t quiet right. Deep down in my heart, I was still yearning after the virtues of an internally geared hub and carbon belt drive. Okay, there I said it. (Does it make me a bad person for secretly wanting a Rohloff Speedhub?)
ENTER THE CO-MOTION DIVIDE ROHLOFF
Knowing that my traveling future was in long-distance cycle trekking, I finally settled on the Co-Motion Divide Rohloff, primarily due to the bike’s eccentric bottom bracket, belt tension retaining vertical chain stays, integrated belt access point, and overall frame design that fully incorporates the Rohloff Speedhub and Gates Carbon Drive, not to mention Co-Motion’s reputation for exceptional quality and durability. Additionally, I really liked the optional Co-Pilot S&S frame coupling system that enables the bike to be split in two for easier packing and transport.
Upon receiving my new Divide, it was easy to see where my money went. Not a single detail had been overlooked in the construction of the frame, the quality of the components, or the finish of the retro-style paint job. The Co-Motion Divide Rohloff looked sharp, capable and of a quality build.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
The basic technical layout of the Divide as delivered:
Frame: 55 cm, large diameter Reynolds 725 steel tubes.
Fork: Co-Motion taper-gage Cro-Moly steel.
Headset: Chris King Inset.
Wheels: Hand built Velocity Cliffhanger/DT Swiss 540/Rohloff Hub wheels, 40 hole rims.
Tires: Geax Evolution 29”.
Drivetrain/Rear Hub: Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 with a Gates 20 tooth rear sprocket, a Gates 46 tooth CDX front sprocket, and a Gates Carbon Drive Centertrack Belt.
Bottom Bracket: FSA / Co-Motion Eccentric.
Crankset: FSA 175 mm.
Brakes: TRP Spyre disc brakes w/160mm Rotors.
Saddle: Selle Italia Nekkar Flow.
Seat Post: Co-Motion Kalloy 29.8
Cockpit: FSA Stem (drop handlebars omitted, replaced with a Jones Loop H-Bar).
Shifter: Rohloff (to fit a Jones Loop H-Bar).
Weight: 28 pounds.
EXTRAS FROM CO-MOTION
When you’re booked on the Titanic, you might as well go first class. Chances are, I’ll only buy one high-end hand-built bike in my lifetime. So, I might as well do it right the first time and have no regrets a few months down the road, wishing I’d gotten this or that upgrade and didn’t. With that in mind, I added the following optional upgrades: a Co-Pilot frame with S&S Couplers, a kickstand plate, stainless steel dropouts and brake mounts, HOK Pearlescent Bittersweet color paint and retro style silver panels with black lettering, all topped off with a Co-Motion nickel head tube badge.
A FEW PERSONAL TOUCHES
Like most riders, I’ve developed certain preferences for saddles, handle bars and other gear based on my riding experiences, style of travel and personal taste. In addition to the Co-Motion upgrades and to better suit my riding style, I changed the handlebars, the saddle, and tires to make the customization of my Divide pretty much complete, which is now set up closely to my Fargo, minus the internally geared hub and belt drive.
I purchased the Divide from Co-Motion without the drop bar, choosing to replace it with a Jones Loop Aluminum 710 mm H-Bar and ESI Extra Chunky Grips. To be frank, I never used the drops on my Fargo Wood Chipper handlebars and straight flattop handlebars seemed to limit my hand placements, gear mounting space, and tended to cause numbness in my hands and arms during long rides. So, I went with the Jones Loop H-Bar instead.
Next, I replaced the Nekkar Flow seat with a Brooks Cambium saddle. Nothing against the Selle Italia, it’s a nice saddle; but I just like Brooks, which I’ll review in a separate post in the weeks and months to come. I decided to give the Cambium a shot because I didn’t like getting the leather Brooks B17 saddle wet in the rain or having to put on and take off the waterproof cover every time it rained or sprinkled. The jury is still out on the Cambium, but I’ll keep you posted.
I fitted the cranks with the same a pair of Shimano XTR SPD pedals I’ve used on my last several bikes. I’m in the “clipless camp,” and have been since the 80’s. (Did I just give away what a fossil I am?) I prefer clipless pedals for the added pedaling efficiency and ability to target different muscle groups in my legs while riding and to alter my pedaling technique on hills. I guess it’s that old “different strokes” adage.
I switched out the out the Geax Evolution 29er tires for a pair of bulletproof, goathead crushing Schwalbe 28×2.0 Marathon Mondial tires and covered them with a pair of Planet Bike Cascadia 29er fenders to keep the road splash off me and the Divide, as riding in the rain during the monsoon season in China is like cycling in a carwash. Some may think fenders look goofy, but as a long-distance rider, I’m totally sold on them and won’t trek without them.
To carry my water bottles, I bolted on a pair of Specialized Zee Composite bottle cages. I know they’re not metal and may be more vulnerable to failure, but I like ’em and am going to assume some risk here. Besides, replacement bottle cages are pretty easy to pick up in local bike shops along the way.
There are lots of nice racks out there, but I went with my Surly Nice front and rear racks off of my Salsa Fargo. They are heavier than other racks, but tough as nails, and I couldn’t see the added cost of getting another set, as I’ve already given up all my future Christmas presents, birthday presents, Valentine’s Day presents, Groundhog Day cards, and any other possible gifts from my lovely and very understanding wife to get the Co-Motion Divide in the first place. Come to think of it, I think I even mortgaged my soul as well, but that’s another story. In addition to using the Surly racks, I swapped out all the stock mounting screws for stainless steel allen screws to curtail any potential rusting issues.
In the cockpit, I outfitted the H-Bar with my Garmin GPS Map 62SC and Garmin 800 (a leftover from my road bike) global positioning units for navigation, an inclinometer to measure slopes (and to add a sense of meaning to my whining and crying while climbing big, long mountains). I also put on a sweet Crane Suzu brass Mini Bell for safety and a machined aluminum video mount for my GoPro camera to capture the action.
PERFORMANCE
Impressive. For the first 500 kilometers, riding the Divide has been a dream. On the road it is a confident and capable traveler, and has had no problems negotiating gravel trails and single track similar to what I would expect to encounter on tour. The bike is stiff, responsive and agile. It’s not a featherweight sprinter, but a sturdy long-range traveler that feels like it will take me anywhere I want to go. The large frame tubes are stiff and the rigid fork is not suspension corrected for hydraulic forks, so the frame’s top tube is not set on as steep an angle like the Fargo, making the Divide easier to stand over when stopped. The bike seems compact and appears to have a shorter wheelbase than the Fargo. The Divide handles well and is very comfortable to ride, especially with the Brooks Cambium. It’s stable and easy to maintain balance and direction while looking back over my shoulder to check for traffic.
Frame
The Divide’s soul is a burly, quality hand-built frame of excellent workmanship. Emblazoned on the bottom of the seat tube is an American flag with the words “Handmade Oregon USA.” It’s apparent to see from fit of the tubes and S&S couplers, the welds on the frame, and the finish on the paint, a lot of care and attention to detail was given to its construction. No details were overlooked. Large diameter Reynolds 725 steel tubing for the top and down tubes and super beefy chain stays make for a strong frame like those used on Co-Motion’s tandem bikes. As part of the custom set up, they extended the head tube 4 cm to give me a better fit and to reduce the number of stem spacers. With Co-Motion’s touring geometry, my fit on the bike is comfortable and relaxed, and felt like I could ride it all day. The Rohloff Speedhub and Gates Drive are fully integrated into the frame. It all fits together and looks clean and not cobbled together. The custom paint job and retro panels are finished off nicely, adding to its personalized look. The frame has three bottle mounting points, two on the down tube and one on the seat tube.
The eccentric bottom bracket is used to set the drive belt tension while vertical rear wheel dropouts allow the rear tire to be removed and replaced while maintaining the belt tension. I’ve had the rear wheel off and on a couple of times and checked the belt tension with a Gates KriKit tension gauge, and the tension has remained constant. The self-locking eccentric bottom bracket should make belt tensioning a breeze and the hidden belt access point on right seat stay will make for quick, painless drive belt replacements. The 29er wheels roll over most anything and the bike feels smooth, tight, and fairly quick on the road, with a ride one would expect of a full rigid frame, not silky smooth like a full suspension bike, but livable and something that can be modulated with tire pressure.
Drive Train
Shifting gears with the Rohloff is snap, which is accomplished by the flick of a the wrist to rotate the standard Rohloff shifter positioned at the end of the right grip on the Jones Bar. The Speedhub shifts are clean and crisp and don’t require any pedaling to change gears, which is a real plus at stop lights or tight situations needing a rapid gear change. At a dead stop, or rolling slowly, a quick flip of the wrist will have you adding or dropping a handful of gears in a jiffy. Shifting is best accomplished if I “lighten up on the pedals” when rotating the shifter to change gears. In particular, I’ve noticed that the Rohloff tends to make a little gear noise in the 7th speed, which Co-Motion says is characteristic for Rohloff hubs in speeds 1-7, due to the way the hub engages the internal reduction gear sets and will decrease with miles ridden; otherwise, the hub is silent when running. Rohloff recommends a break-in period of approximately 1000 kilometers of active riding and that the oil in the Speedhub is replaced every 5000 km with a Rohloff oil change kit, which seems pretty straight forward based on posted YouTube videos I’ve viewed on the subject. With an oil bath gear system, it will be interesting to see how the Rohloff performs in cold weather this winter when the mercury dips below 0℃ and lower. Update to follow…
The Gates Center Track Carbon Belt is smooth and quiet. No chain. No oil. No mess. Nice. Belt life is supposed to be equivalent to that of two bike chains. I ordered a spare to have with me just in case and will keep you posted. The 46 tooth Gates Center Track front sprocket and 20 tooth rear cog, coupled with the Speedhub’s fourteen speed gear range seems sufficient on the low end for loaded climbing on continuous grades. In the Himalayas, I’ve spent all day climbing in granny low (22X36), interspersed with short segments in second and third gears, which was a low enough ratio that I could spin the pedals all day. Having low gears to access while climbing big mountains is a key feature for me. I’ll follow up with a more detailed analysis after I get the bike out on a few loaded rides in the Sierra Nevada’s this fall.
Cockpit and Saddle
In the cockpit, the Jones Loop H-Bar feels great and provides me with plenty of hand positions and real-estate to mount my GPS units, light, bell, etc. No numbness or “old man” hands here. So far, the Brooks Cambium saddle has been a comfortable ride. I’ve gotten in three all-day rides and the seat felt good. I’m interested to see how durable and long lasting the natural rubber and textile saddle will be over time. More to follow here too.
Wheels
The hand-built 40 hole Velocity Cliffhanger double-walled rims with a DT Swiss and Rohloff hubs (components used on tandem bikes) appear to be super strong, a key factor in staving off broken spokes and out-of-true rims precipitated by heavy loads and rough roads. Rohloff says on their website that a wheel built with a Speedhub strengthens the wheel to about the same strength as a tandem wheel, which is good news for those riding heavily laden bikes, as I saw a numerous broken spokes on the bikes of riders traversing the G318 Highway in western China this summer. For me, the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires are the standard for long distance riding. Zero flats. Zero problems in over 8000 kilometers of riding. One of the first things I did when I got the Divide was to slap on a set of 28 x 2.0 Mondial tires. And I’ve never looked back.
Brakes
The TRP Spyre disc brakes and 160mm rotors are powerful, quiet and grippy. No squeaking or squalling, but I haven’t had them in the rain yet. I had no problems descending short distances with a 10 kg load on dry black top. The stopping power was always present and there was no rotor noise. I’m interested to try them out with bigger loads on longer descents.
Co-Pilot Frame Couplers
I haven’t had a chance to check out the S&S couplers, but will next spring when I start traveling overseas, at which time I’ll do a follow up. Having the bike capable of being split in half for easy transport should come in handy for air travel, saving money and paying for themselves in a couple three flights or so with most airlines charging $200 a pop to check a bike box.
CONCLUSION
The Co-Motion Divide Rohloff is a quality, high-end expedition bike hand-built in America. It’s not cheap, but worth the money. I’m continuing learn it’s nuances and am working at becoming “at one with” the Divide. So far, so good. No issues. No complaints.
The Divide is a solid rig capable of carrying me to the fringes of the map and then some. It inspires the confidence get out there and not be worried about whether the bike is up to the task or not. The Divide is a pleasure to ride and has spurred my imagination to the possibility of distant lands and far away places. I’m itching to get her out on the open road on longer rides this fall and winter, and on an expedition to Asia this coming spring and summer, as big mountain passes and misty valleys are beckoning.
Co-Motion website: www.co-motion.com
Nice! 😀 I was looking at these online the other night. I was thinking: “Co-Motion Divide w/Rohloff (Made in USA) is really the way to go! Congratulation on your recent purchase of such a great bike, and thanks for such a great article/review! I may have to buy one of these!
AJ,
Thanks for the comment. I don’t think one could really go wrong with a Co-Motion bike. I thought about it for a couple of years and did a lot of research before I decided to pull the trigger on getting one. So far, I’m really happy that I did. It’s the nicest bike I’ve ever had and I fully intend to get my money’s worth and ride it to the ends of the earth and back. You might want to check out Darren Alf’s sight at: http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/. He’s got a non-Rohloff Co-Motion Pangea that’s pretty sweet. I’ll be doing periodic updates on the Divide. Cheers, Johnny
Wow! What a beauty! I’m curious, how much did you pay for all that gear???
Martin,
Thank you for the comment. How much does all that gear cost? I’m almost embarrassed to say. With all my other trekking kit, I think I’m into it about $10,000. The bike as delivered was $7000. The Brooks Cambium was $145. The Surly Nice Racks run about $145 each. The Shimano XTR pedals around $150. GPS units are about $400 a pop, and the GoPro $300. I justify it because that’s what I love, what I do. I put a lot of miles on my bikes and use my kit all the time for a really long time, so in the end, considering time/amount used, it’s not that expensive. The Divide will probably last me the rest of my life, if I take care of it. I’m the guy that would like to have a few nice things that last a long time, rather than a lot of cheap junk; hence, my decision to buy the Co-Motion Divide Rohloff. I’ve foregone all of the other “toys” and stuff to have a good bike and travel a lot. Oh, and I also have a very, very understanding and supportive wife, who makes it all possible. Cheers, and thanks again for the comment, Johnny
Well Johnny I finally got to read your review of the Comotion Divide outside of what we have been talking about through our private contact. My main reason for seeing your review was to motivate me to keep on saving for what I would call my dream bike. Thanks for helping me decide to go for the Comotion. Your enthusiasm has inspired me to fall in love with this bike and the Rohloff hubs. In time I’ll be sharing my insights with you. Thanks again…
Your friend, Alan…
Alan,
Glad the review was of some use. At over 6000 km, my Divide is still rolling strong. As I type this message, it’s in a bike box being loaded on a 747 airliner in preparation to fly to Shanghai, where I plan to put lots of kilometers on it. I will keep a running post as to future performance of the Divide. So far, so good. I’m more than satisfied with the Co-Motion. It’s a fine bike.
Happy trails. In adventure,
Johnny
Hi Johnny,
Thank you for your beautiful website and for sharing your passion with others.
I am preparing to have a expedition touring bicycle custom built by Joseph Ahearne in Portland, Oregon. I am so fired up, and a bit anxious at the same time. Many of the higher quality components that I would like to use on this bike are not stocked in my local bike shop. Therefore, I am left reading endlessly on the internet, hoping the discern the best component choices from various reviews & blogs.
I have been considering going with the Rohloff Speedhub and the Gates belt drive combo on this bike. When I talked about traveling through mountains and in developing countries with Joseph, he suggested that due the gear range on the Rohloff hub, I may be better served with a conventional mountain bike drivetrain (MTB 9 cog cassette and three chainrings up front). Another bicycle builder told me I should consider foregoing the belt drive and stick with a chain if I do go with the Rohloff hub.
I see that you have chosen the Rohloff/Gates belt drive combo for your expedition touring bike. Would please share any experiences, thoughts, insights you have regarding these component choices? How have you found the Rohloff’s gear range for climbing/descending? Any issues with maintaining belt tension? Sand or dirt in belt causing noise, etc.?
Thank you for any insight that you can offer.
Cheers,
Keith
Keith,
Thanks for the email and the kind words. Congratulations on your upcoming trip. It sounds really exciting. Sorry for the delayed response, as I’ve been out on the road and not internet contact.
Bottom line up front: The Rohloff Speedhub/Gates CDX Carbon Belt drivetrain is the best I’ve had. I’m going on 8000 km on my Co-Motion Divide and have had zero issues and am completely sold on the internally geared hub and carbon belt set up.
Recommend you check out Rohloff’s website at: http://www.rohloff.de/en/company/index.html. There you can find detailed information on not only the Rohloff Speedhub, but in-depth range and gear step comparisons between a standard 3 x 9 derailleur set up the Rohloff Speedhub, which is both wider in range and provides a clean 13.5% step between gears with no duplication, unlike the standard derailleur rigs.
Not to be pejorative, but in my experience, most local bike techs are mostly unfamiliar with Rohloff Speedhubs, Gates carbon belts, and long distance touring in general. You have to do a lot of online research from varied sources. Many long-distance cyclists run Rohloff Speedhubs without issue. I think you are on the right track.
It’s a bit different of a riding style. Because Rohloff and Gates gear is unique and high-end, they not available in every local bike shop in every hamlet scattered across the globe. So if you are traveling afar, I recommend you put a contingency plan in place to deal with any mechanical issues that could potentially occur. I myself carry a spare Gates belt and a set of cables/housings for my Rohloff along with a few spokes, rack bolts and such. Sometimes I’ll carry an old change kit for the Rohloff as well, which is small, compact and light.
I just moved to Shanghai and will be using my Co-Motion Divide with Rohloff Speedhub and Gates Carbon Drive to travel all over Asia and am confident the rig with meet or exceed my expectations.
The Gates Carbon Belt is a real plus and in my opinion superior to traditional chains. Highly recommend over a standard chain. It’s completely silent, lasts 2-3 times that of standard chain, requires no oiling or lubricating, and is cleaned by simply washing it off. If you go with the chain/Rohloff, you gain the advantages of internal gearing, but are still stuck with the hassles of dealing with a chain. I’ve encountered no issues with belt tension or maintenance issues. Large amounts of dust may cause the belt to squeak, but nothing a few ounces of water from the water bottle won’t solve.
The only adjustment I made to my set up was to change from a 20 Tooth Rear Cog to a 22 Tooth in order to get another 10% on the low end of the gear range to help me out on multiple, long, all day climbing efforts with a fully loaded bike so as not to totally blow my legs out. I’ve had my big on several rides over the Sierra Nevadas climbing loaded on 6-8% grades without issue or wanting more on the lower end.
Lastly, I would also recommend that if possible, the frame maker set you up with a way to maintain belt tension when removing and replacing the rear tire. My Divide is built around the Rohloff Speedhub and Gates belt drive. Co-Motion has vertical rear dropouts that correctly re-tensions the belt when reinstalling the rear tire. It also has an eccentric bottom brake that makes setting the initial belt tension a snap and an integrated right side seat stay access point to simplify belt replacement. You may want to check out Co-Motions website for the particulars.
I’m more than satisfied with the Rohloff Hub and Gates Carbon Belt Drive on my Co-Motion Divide. No complaints or issues. Highly recommend.
Hope this helps you in your research. Please let me know if you have any other questions.
In adventure,
Johnny
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences. I recently sold my Fargo, which I loved, and am getting ready to purchase a Pangea. As a smaller woman I decided the 26 inch wheel size is a better fit for me. I am also getting the Rohloff with the Gates belt. I think you’re right, people who aren’t familiar with a technology tend to discount it. For me I think it will be a perfect solution for low maintenance and durability in remote and off-road locations. I am curious about your gearing. You went pretty low, which is what I am thinking of as well. Do you feel that’s working out for you?
Joyce,
Thank you for the comments. In a nutshell, the gearing on my Co-Motion Divide is doing great. Highly recommend low range gearing for long, sustained climbs with a fully laden trekking bike.
If you are going to be doing a lot of loaded climbing, I highly recommend considering getting as low a gearing as possible, which will really make a difference on long steep climbs. Now, I can spend all day on the in the low gears on 6% grades and not feel physically blown out at the end of the day. The bike originally came with a 46 tooth cog on the front and a 20 tooth on the back, which gave me 17.3 gear inches in first gear and 91.1 in fourteenth speed on the top. After crossing the Sierra Nevadas fully loaded last fall, I felt like needed a little lower of a range for long steep climbs and replaced the 20 tooth on the back to a 22 tooth, dropping my bottom end to 15.8 gear inches (a reduction of about 10%) and the top speed to 82.8 gear inches. I lost a little bit on the top end, but haven’t noticed it on all the flat riding I’ve done over the pasted 5 months in and around Shanghai since switching cogs. Additionally, I’ve done several extended climbs under loaded conditions with the new gear set up and am glad I made the change. As for the nominal top end loss in gearing, which is normally used on the downhill, I can always coast if I spin out on the top end.
Sheldon Brown has a great gear calculator for the Rohloff Speedhub at: http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/ where you can check out the numbers for yourself. Additionally, I recommend checking out Rohloff’s site on their gearing, which the specify the lowest gear ratio you can go is 2.10 between the front and rear cogs without voiding the Rohloff warranty. Cycle Monkey in Albany, CA (a certified Rohloff dealer) did an excellent job switching the rear cogs on the Divide, which had enough adjustment in the eccentric bottom bracket that didn’t require getting a longer carbon drive belt. With the Gates cogs for a Rohloff Hub, I think the options are 19, 20, and 22.
Hope this helps. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Let me know how your Pangea works out. Co-Motion builds excellent bikes. I love Divide Rohloff — 9 months, 8000 km and no issues. The bike is still running like new. I’m hitting the Silk Road in about three weeks and totally stoked about getting on the road with the Co-Motion Divide, which should be around 3000 km.
Happy trails,
Johnny
Thanks! Agree on a bike for loaded touring the bottom end of the range is much more important than the top. Enjoy your trip, I’ll look forward to reading about it.
Joyce
You too, Joyce. Best regards and happy trails, Johnny
Thanks for a wonderful review. Even though I have a titanium Salsa Fargo, I confess to being envious about your CoMotion.
I also have a Garmin GPS Map 62SC, and noticed that your GPS mount appears to be different (and more robust) than Garmin’s stock mount. Is that true, or are my eyes deceiving me?
Mike,
Thank you for the comments and kind words. Much appreciated.
I think the Salsa Fargo’s a great bike as well. I’ve got a steel framed Fargo I road before getting the Co-Motion Divide. The Fargo’s a great bike and very similar to the Divide, only with a derailleur set up.
The Co-Motion Divide Rohloff is an awesome bike. If you’re interested, I’m putting up a one year review of the bike in next couple of days.
Yes, you’re correct. The GPS unit is a Garmin GPSMap 62SC — a great unit that I’ve used all my trips for the past three years. This summer I changed over to running a Delorme Explorer that links with my iPhone 6 Plus for map viewing and tracking, which is a pretty neat set up as well only with messaging and an SOS capability that gives my wife a little more peace of mind when I’m on the road. Since the Explorer was new to me, I took along the Garmin GPSMap 62SC as a backup and ran both on my trip along the Silk Road. Good thing I did, as my bike tipped over and smacked the Explorer on the sidewalk breaking the transmitting antenna. I used the Garmin the remainder of the journey.
Now there are lots of GPS apps for smartphones, such as Riding With GPS, that work pretty well too.
Best regards, Johnny
Man this bike is epic! I’ve been designing a dream bike and this is 99% it 🙂 even the colour etc 🙂 Don’t be ashamed of the cost, think about how much a caravan or motorhome costs to buy and run.
James,
Thank you for the comments and checking out my site.
Yeah, you’re right. It’s all about priorities. Some of those motor homes are going for the better part of a million dollars. Cheap becomes expensive, so buy right and buy once.
I’m currently in Cambodia headed towards Siam Reap and the Temples at Angkor Wat. The Divide is performing wonderfully. No issues and a pleasure to ride.
Good luck on your bike. Please let me know how it works out.
Happy riding, Johnny
Dear Johnny,
I am an OAP (66 year old, old age pensioner) located in the UK. My lovely wife has just passed away and I am looking for a way to retrieve a bit of my sanity and have chosen a project of expedition riding. I used to ride a Lynskey on the road here in the UK, but the road conditions don’t really lend themselves to OAP’s riding, and I was getting bored with the same scenery. Now being responsible for myself only, I have started this project of looking. Your review has solidified again my choice of the Co-Motion, probably the Pangea, but I will have listen to the advice of the Co-motion dealer I will purchase from. Since I am from the US and have my sons there, I was planning on making my purchase from a US dealer and go pick it up from them in the states. I have not decided on a dealer just yet, and I am open to any suggestions. You cycle set up represents the closest choice of equipment that I have imagined would be my ideal set up. The one hesitation I have with this massive investment is the fact that I am not an experienced camper these past 30 years and I am wondering how my body will hold up to the challenges of expedition riding. I am reasonably fit, but have a bit of a hip pain, nothing too serious and a replaced knee already. Anyway, its only money in the long run, and if I can eliminate housing costs here in the UK, I will be able to do this for some time. My in-laws are encouraging me and think this is actually a great idea for me too.
I just wanted give out a shout and see where you are now, and perhaps correspond from time to time. Thanks for the great review, and so far, I plan on a black Pangea with S&S couplers. Kind regards, Craig Seeley
Craig,
Thank you for your wonderful comments and visiting my site. Please accept my condolences on the passing of your wife.
The Co-Motion Pangea is an excellent bike. World cycling tourist Darren Alf has been riding one for several years and really likes it. He’s put up a video and a review of the bike at bicycletouringpro.com if you’re interested.
Recommend contacting Co-Motion directly regarding the order and delivery of your bike. They’ll be able to recommend how to work the sizing, purchase and delivery. That’s how I worked my Divide and Co-Motion did a great job hooking me up with a local bike shop that could assess my old bike, get my measurements and place the order. It was a pretty smooth process. Whether you decide to take delivery in the UK or the US, Co-Motion will put you in contact with good people.
You’re right. The bike isn’t cheap, but it’s worth every penny. I have over 10,000 km on my Divide and it is running great. Over the last two days, I pedaled solo across about 80 of rough dirt road in Cambodia with the bike fully loaded slamming into pot holes and beating the heck out the bike and the Divide hasn’t even flinched. It’s performing rock steady. I have compete confidence in the bike and have no qualms getting on it and riding over horizon by myself. No worries.
Getting a comfortable bike fit is key. Having a bike that you can ride long distances (100-160 km) per day, day in and day out is critical to expedition riding. The geometry on the Divide and Pangea are relaxed so you can get into a more upright posture. Rather than sticking with the stock drop bars, I went with a 710mm Jones Loop H-Bar that gives me many more hand positions. I can even put my elbows down on bar and ride in an “aero” which I did on and off for the past three days as I seemed to be pushing a headwind the entire way. A good saddle is important too. I’m running a Brooks Cambium C17 and really like it. Finally and most importantly is getting the bike set up for you with an initial set up and then gradually dialing it in. I focused on getting the seat post height correct saddle position over the pedals, then the correct handlebar position and seat pitch. I kept a log and tweaked each adjustment in until the bike was set. Then I marked the adjustment positions with white out and recorded the measurements. I haven’t had to touch an adjustment since.
I think easing back into the cycling is a great idea. Build from one adventure to another adjusting your bike and kit as you go. That’s what I do.
Black sounds nice and the S&S couplers are sweet. I’ve used them a couple of times. Sounds like you have the opportunity. Get the bike you want. Do it right the first time. You won’t regret it.
You’re right. In the end it’s only money. You can’t take it with you. Do what you want to. Not doing so will be the only real regret.
Let me know how it works out. If there’s anything else I can do, drop me a line.
Happy trails and distant horizons,
Johnny
Hi. Thanks for doing this review. Can you tell me which brake levers you have on the Jones bars to work with the Spyre brakes?
-bruce
Bruce,
The brake levers are TRP Spyke Levers and they work great with the Jones Loop H-Bar. No issues.
Thanks for checking out my review. Glad you found it useful. If I can be of any further assistance, please let me know.
Best regards,
Johnny
Greetings Johnny!
I am building up a Divide rohloff frameset and seriously considering the Jones loop bar. Was there anything in particular that helped you figure out the ideal stem length/rise for those bars?
Best,
Erik
Erik
I began with the intial stem that came with the bike that was an FSA 110mm length and 10 degree rise. I went through my intial bike set up, which is: 1. Set the saddle height and position. 2. Set the up right riding position by adjusting the stem length and angle. Spending everyday on the bike for long periods of time, I like more comfortable upright riding position, which also releaves pressure on your hands. I shortened the stem by 10mm to a 100mm and keep the angle at 10 degrees, which put me into a more comfortable upright position. Co-Motion’s initial set up for me was pretty much dead on. Plus, the Jones Loop H-Bar provides plenty of room to move your hands in and out that will change your riding posture forward or backwards a bit. So far, this has been the right set up for me. I’ve ridden several thousand kilometers and like my riding position. My hands don’t get numb and saddle sores are minimal.
Hope this helps. Apologies for the late response. I’ve been on the road and haven’t had much internet access to the check the blog.
If I can be of more assistance, please let me know. Best regards,
Johnny
Johnny,
Extremely useful and informative review, thanks. I also have the divide and am liking the idea of an H-Bar, possibly coupled w/ Cinq5 Shift:R’s.
However, your H-Bar is 710mm, or 28″. How does this fit in the 26″ case?
Thanks,
pete
Pete,
My bike is a 29er so haven’t tired to put it in a 26″ case and being in Asia, I’ve been shipping the bike in a regular bike box as most Asian airlines consider a bike box checked baggage as long as it doesn’t weigh over 22.5 kg and meet their oversize requirements. So the I’ve only been removing the front wheel and securing it with the handlebar with zip ties on the side of the bike’s frame. If the 710 Loop H-Bars are too bike for a 26″ case, I recommend you go with the 660mm bars. Or you could try to make the 710mm fit and cut them down if they don’t.
Thank you for stopping by my site. Best regards, Johnny
29er rims are really 622mm, which is less than 24-1/2 inches, so they do fit in the 26″ cases. I’d guess that the 710 H-Bar would as well, but it would have to be diagonal (28″, tip to tip). The 660 is right at about 26″. I opted for the 660 and am now building up other pieces (cinq 5 shifters, new brake levers).
Cheers,
pete
Pete,
Sounds like you’ve got it all worked out and have the hot setup. As long as it works for you is what counts. Best luck on finishing you build and happy trails. Please shoot me some pics if you get a chance. I love to see your final product.
Cheers, Johnny
Hi Johnny. I love hearing all about your bike – and experiences. I am dream after similar adventures. I am looking forward to retirement in a few years – if I am lucky. Initially I would like to tour the typical European countries, but if time and circumstances allow, I would like to continue into eastern Europe and maybe as far as Russia. The orient also calls (there isn’t any place that I DON’T want to see) My primary question for you concerns tire width. I am leaning to the Americano Rohloff/belt which is equipped with 35mm (about 1.38″). Given a choice, I don’t foresee myself choosing rough off-road routes. But I don’t know how rough the roads could be. In your experience do you think 35mm would get me through what roads I might find?
And one of the larger concerns I foresee, is the security of my bike. Traveling through exotic and interesting locations means a person will want to see and do things – but I would be afraid to leave my bike and gear out of my sight. How do you handle securing your bike and all your stuff?
But also – the silk road??? Isn’t that mostly running through the Gobi desert? Even though it’s a vital piece of cultural history, I’m not sure I would choose that route. haha.
Thank you so much for sharing your experiences and paving the way for the rest of us.
Brad,
If you’re planning on staying mostly on the tarmac, with an occasional foray down a gravel road or two, I think 35mm wheels should do fine. For me, 35mm is plenty for long distance travel. I think anything wider would be slower on paved roads and is for those who spend most of their bikepacking and riding in the backcountry on trails and single track. If you were looking at doing some backroads touring, you can beef up the tires too. I’m currently running a pair of Ryde Andra 35 rims with a pair of 29×2.0 Schwalbe Mondial tires that is more than enough for me on and off the road. They’re not so big that they slow me way down on the asphalt and will do whatever I need on gravel roads, trails, and single track, especially when the Divide is loaded, which is pretty much how I ride it most of the time when I’m traveling.
Bike and gear security are always a concern. Most of the I am with my bike. It’s always in my sight and anyone around can see me and would understand that the bike is mine and I’m paying attention to it. If I go into a store for a minute or two, I have a small diameter cable lock that I use to secure the bike to something to slow down a would-be thief attempting a “snatch and grab.” I try to park the bike right in front of the store where I can see it through the window while I’m inside. I always try to be situationally aware of my surroundings and any people in the immediate area. If I see any sketchy people or get the “vibe.” I don’t leave the bike and go somewhere else to do my business. If I stay in a hotel, the bike comes in the room with me. If I’m camping, the bike is right next to the tent, where I usually tie a line from the bike and run it into the tent. If anyone tries to take the bike, the line will pull on the tent and let me know. If I’m going to be away from the bike for any period of time, I try to get someone to watch it or lock it up, such as hotel staff, etc. I’ve even left it with security guards or at a police station. I usually take all of the valuables (money, passport, camera, phone, GPS, etc.) with me in a knapsack.
Looks like you’re planning to cycle through some awesome places. I want to get to Europe and would love to go to Russia. The are definitely on my tick list. The Gobi Desert was awesome. Just drink plenty of water.
Thank you for checking out my blog. I appreciate the kind words.
Best regards,
Johnny
Thanks for the review Johnny.
I have recently received my Divide rohloff and am equipping the bike for long range touring.
I have currently mounted Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700 x 40 tires with SKS tan colored fenders to match (sort of) the tan colored “panels” on the otherwise chocolate brown bike.
Options are : Tubus logo rear rack, Duo front (required eyelets add-on) Pathfinder package with USB port, Brooks B17 saddle, Ortlieb backroller plus bags, Arkel small handlebar bag, matching frame pump, SS dropouts. It’s a beauty.
I was wondering about adapting the bike to ride the Great Divide MTN bike route which, in my opinion, would require some weight loss on the bike.
I can’t find any info on the steerer tube spec, in order to find out whether I can use a carbon fork such as the Lauf, for the long stretches of washboard gravel. I have asked Co-Motion about this and am awaiting a reply. It also seems a rear cog swap would be in order for the long climbs.
Lastly, adapting a Tubus Logo Titan (titanium) rear rack to replace the Logo classic which is very heavy for the lighter cargo load I would be carrying. Tubus lists it (Titan) as 28 inch compatible whereas the Logo is 29er compatible. Additional options might be lighter rims.
Ironically, the bike is named after the Divide route, yet I can find no info on anyone actually riding one on that route.
Your thoughts please.
Dan,
Congratulations. I think you’re going to like your Divide. I’ve had mine for about two years now and about 25,000 km later it’s still going great. It sounds like you’re going to have a pretty sweet setup when you’ve got all dressed out with all the accouterments you mentioned. It would love to see a picture when you’re finished. I don’t think you’d have any issues at all taking it on the Great Divide.
I think your best source for the steer tube specifications is probably right from Co-Motion. They’ll have all the data on your bike in their computer. My Divide came with a 46 tooth cog on the front and a 20 tooth cog on the rear. Neil Flock at Cycle Month swapped out the rear cog for a 22 after I’d ridden it over the Sierra Nevadas to San Francisco. The slightly larger cog decreased the first gear to about 16 gear inches, a gain of about 10% on the bottom end, which has been great in the mountains under a load. If you’re going to spend a lot of time climbing with a load, I high recommend you consider increasing your Divide’s bottom end capacity. Now I can spend all day on 6-8% grades without blowing my legs out.
I’ve got a Tubus Logo Cargo on my Divide and really like it. The Tubus is much lighter and a little narrower than the Surly I had on first.
I went to the Divide this year, though I had to return to Shanghai after about five days because my member of my riding partner’s family had a serious medical emergency. My Divide was the only one I’d seen in Canada. As a matter of fact, I’ve never seen another Co-Motion on the road, save for what others have put up on their blogs. I think it’s because the Co-Motion bikes are a high-end niche bike tailored for specific riders. I know for me, the major reason I went with the Co-Motion Divide and not another brand was that the bike is specifically built for the Rohloff Hub and Gates Carbon Belt, which in my humble opinion, if not they best set up, one of the top two or three out there. Removing or installing the rear wheel or belt or adjusting the belt tension is simple, clean and straight forward — probably easier than dealing with a chain and derailleur set up.
Everywhere I go, I get nothing but second looks and compliments on the Divide. It’s a first class ride, no doubt about it. I had a Salsa Fargo prior to getting the Divide. It was a nice bike, but not nearly as nice as the Co-Motion Divide, which is in completely different class. It’s my intention to take this bike to the grave. I ran across a German guy sporting a hand built titanium bike with a Pinion gearbox and chain setup, which was a pretty sweet ride, but not as nice as the Divide (I am biased of course).
I think you will be pleased with your Divide. They are exceptionally well built and highly reliable with the Rohloff Hub and Gate Carbon Belt. Plus they are simple to maintain. The Divide will take you anywhere you have the desire to ride and then some. Enjoy, my friend.
Thank you much for checking out my blog. Please let me know if there’s anything else I can do.
Cheers, Johnny
Thank you for your quick reply Johnny. It is reassuring to hear from someone who has been there before us – so to speak. You make me feel more assured and certain of my decision to go with the Americano. And you give me hope that security isn’t an insurmountable problem. I have thought of rigging a string trigger myself – maybe tied to my ankle or wrist. Have any hotel personnel ever given you a hard time about bringing your bike in the room? Utilizing guards or police is great, although in some countries I might wonder how trustworthy they might be, or if they would care very much about what happens to my stuff. But perhaps a little cash could help in that regard.
I am so glad I stumbled upon your blog here. And I leave you with this…
Half the fun of the travel is the aesthetic of lostness. ~ Ray Bradbury
Brad,
No worries. Glad to assist. I think you will be really pleased with the Americano. I have a friend in Carson City, Nevada, who owns and Americano and loves it. I looked at it and took it for a ride before deciding to get my Divide. Co-Motion makes a pretty sweet bike.
Surprisingly enough, most of the hotels I’ve stayed at have been very accommodating and have let me take my bike with me to the room. When they didn’t, the either locked it up in a room for me or secured it behind the front desk. I can only think of one or two hotels in the past two years that didn’t want to deal with the bike. If a hotel didn’t want to let me take the bike to my room or secure it for me, I just found one that did, which was never a problem.
In most of the countries I’ve traveled in, if a hotel staff member, security guard, or police officer accepts responsibility for securing your bike, they make sure that it is safe because they know they will be in big trouble if they accept responsibility and then lose a foreigner’s gear — more so if Asia than in the U.S. As you suggested, I usually tip anyone that takes care of my gear as well, which provides them with an added incentive to watch out for my bike.
Great quote. Ray Bradbury is an awesome guy. I had the pleasure of meeting Lenord Nimoy once and he mentioned what a great guy Ray Bradbury was to work with on the set of Star Trek. But that’s another story.
Best of luck with your Americano. Shoot me a pic if you get a chance. I’d love to see your ride.
Cheers,
Johnny
Greetings,
Just finished a ride up the East Coast Greenway from DC to Boston. The Divide was rock solid. Not a problem at all. Only issues were with transport – trying to get American Airlines to take it on a plane – ended up stripping it down to meet their 50lb limit and sticking it in a cardboard box. – no fenders which would have come in handy during a deluge along a canal in Princeton. The other issue was the weight, picking it up and carrying it over barriers near NYC to go over some bridges and hauling it up two flights of stairs for a hostel in Manhattan. Prior to the trip I had put in about 500 miles in Tucson but the Rohloff never quite settled in – shifts between 7 & 8 or so would slip or jump. When I returned and changed the oil this has improved. However, when I returned I found I had develop a significant neuropathy from using the H-Bar. I’m going to switch back to the drop bars, since on my previous long trip through the USA and Mexico on my 30 year old REI Randonee never gave me that kind of trouble. Perhaps you have some ideas about the angle of the Hone bar and maybe different grips? At 59 years, I’m looking to a bike that will outlast me. Planning on trips in Asia next year.
David,
Thank you much for the comments.
I’ve found the Divide to be a rock solid rig as well. I’ve been very pleased with its performance and wouldn’t hesitate to ride it anywhere.
Unfortunately, American airline companies charge dearly to transport a bike, unlike most Asian airlines that consider them as checked baggage if they are in a box and under 22 kg. Say the word “bike” to most American airline companies and it’s $200.
Fenders are an integral part of my rain protection system and keep the road spray off of my gear and lower extremities pretty well.
I’ve hauled my bike and gear up many flights of stairs as well. It seems to be pare for the course. One time, I carried my bike loaded up six flights of stairs in western China. It will be too soon if I ever have to do that again.
I’ve never had any shifting issues with the Rohloff hub, though I did have the axle bearing start chirping a bit at about 25,000 km, so I had them replaced while I was in the U.S. this summer. Perhaps the shifter cables are a little out of adjustment and stopping right where the hub shifts. You may want to give Neil Flock a call at the Cycle Monkey and see what he says. He’s the North American service rep for Rohloff hubs.
Getting the right bars is key, regardless of what they are. Setting yourself up so you’re comfortable in the saddle for long periods is essential to riding your bike long distances day in and day out.
I on the other hand am loving my Jones Loop H-Bars, especially with the Gnarwal mono aero bar. On the flats or in headwinds, I spend most of my time riding in an aero position. It’s working out pretty good.
I’m using the extra chunky 8.25 inch grips. My bar is slightly angled up, but more importantly, I’m in an upright riding posture when not in the aero position, which keeps the weight off of my hands and back over the saddle. This alone significantly reduced the pressure on my hands and virtually eliminated any numbness or tingling in my hands. The more up right, the less pressure on your hands. Moreover, riding in the aero position gives my hands a big rest as well.
If I have my way, the Divide will see me to the grave as well. It’s the last bike I intend to buy.
If you make it through Shanghai, let me know. The first beer’s on me.
Thank you again for your comments. Hope I was of assistance.
Best regards,
Johnny
Comotion divide…. my worst nightmare. Pic-poor customer service and nightmare maintenance issues. Plan on locating a service center before you buy the bike. Get ready fore Gates and Comotion to play tennis with who is responsible for the repairs. You are caught in the middle and stuck with the shipping costs. ALL the service centers I contacted can change the oil or the belt. That’s all. Other issues must be sent to Oregon or rep they designate. Last three month trip saw only 8 weeks of riding due to MX issues. Finally found a used Trucker and had a great ride. $1200 vs $10k. My Comotion is for sale. If someone is stupid enough to buy it, I hope I never have to look them in the face. First class POS with pathetic customer service.
Al,
Wow, what an experience. Sounds like you’ve been through the ringer with the Divide. That’s too bad, especially with the service. Not that it’ll will help now, but for what it’s worth, Cycle Monkey out of Berkeley, Ca, is an authorized US Rohloff service center. They’ve inspected and serviced my Rohloff hub a couple times, including replacing seals, etc. and their service has been top notch. I’m not sure what your plans are for your Divide, but if you’re still getting it serviced, they would be who I would get in touch with. Each time, Cycle Monkey got my bike right in and turned it around within a week or so. No issues. Back in 2016, I didn’t have an issue with a front Cliffhanger another bike shop had used to build me a dynamo hub rib. When Cycle Monkey service the bike, they said the new Cliffhanger rim has a design flaw and warranted the rim for me even though they didn’t do the work. They’re on the web if you’re interested.
I haven’t dealt with Co Motion much after taking delivery of the Divide with I bought it, other than to order some spare spokes and a cable connector.
Fortunately, my Divide had 40,000+ km and is still going strong. Other than regular services and a cog and drive belt replacement last fall, I haven’t had any issues other than normal wear and tear.
Again, sorry to hear about your Divide. Thank you much for sharing. Good luck with your Trucker. I’ve seen a lot on the road. Wish you better luck in the future.
Cheers,
Johnny
Hi,
I ended up buying an almost identical version of your bike. Except I went with the pinion drive.
When you pack your bike, do you use the co motion suit case? And do you remove the forks from the frame?
Thx,
Eddie
Eddie,
Congratulations on your new Co-Motion Divide. I’m sure you’re excited to get it out on the road, and have no doubt it will give you many adventurous miles of riding. I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Pinion Drive, so I think it will serve you well too.
When traveling with the bike, I pack the bike in a bike box I’ve sourced at a local bike shop where I’m flying from. I didn’t purchase the Co-Motion suitcase for the bike, as I usually fly to one location and ride quite a ways to another where I fly back home. So, having a bike suitcase to deal with wouldn’t be feasible. On a couple of occasions I have arrived and departed at the same location. When I did, I just left the bike box I brought the bike in with the hotel I stayed in during the first and last nights of the trip. They were more than happy to store the bike box and bag for my panniers until I got back.
My basic luggage set up when I fly or travel by train where a bike box is required is: Checked Bags: One Bike Box that holds the bike and some gear. One large cloth bag that holds four panniers. Once carry one camera backpack with my camera gear, lithium batteries, cellphone, and any other sensitive gear. All luggage meets the safety and airline regulations for the bike and gear. Be sure to check that before you go, and keep a copy of regulations with you when you go to the airport, as it’s been my experience, many airline personnel are not familiar with their own company’s policies and will try to overcharge you or refuse to check the bike. Be prepared to tactfully educate them.
I don’t remove the forks, but turn them 180º to the rear when I put the frame in the box. I do remove the handle bars, the saddle and seat post (as one piece), the front tire and fender, and front rack if I’m using one. I deflate both tires (required for air travel). I lash the handlebars and front tire (with fender) to the side of the frame with shoe laces. I use pipe insulation or pool noodles to protect the bike frame from the tire, handlebars, etc. If there is a front rack, I straddle it over the top tube on the bike frame. As one piece (frame, tire, handlebars, etc), I drop the bike into a bike box, that I’ve got from a local bike shop. Pack any screws, bolts, etc. in a ziploc bag and tape it to the bike or put screw them into their normal holes for safekeeping. Then I fit other gear, such as helmet, small bags, etc, into the box.
Practice packing your bike before you go. Measure the bike in its packed form, then go to the bike store and get the right size box. Keep a record of the box’s measurements: Length, Height, Width, so you can get the right sized box when you need to get another on for the homeward trip. I use shoe laces to lash the parts together because you can reuse the. If I’m going to depart from the same arrive point, I store them in the bike box and travel bag, which is stored at a hotel. I’ll also throw in a roll of packing tape too. If the hotel won’t store the box, perhaps a local bike shop will. Call ahead.
Along with the shoe laces, I have a fork spreader/brace and plastic axle protectors I got from a bike shop after they unpacked a bike. If I’m going to depart from another location, I dispose of the bike box (cut it up and put in the trash) and keep the shoe laces, fork brace, and axle protector in a ziplock bag and take them with me. When I arrive at my destination, I will find a bike box from a bike shop and buy packing tape from a local store. I usually stay in a hotel the night before I leave and pack my bike and make arrangements to get to the airport then. A couple of times, I picked up a box, carried it to the airport, packed my bag there, and then flew out. But I try to avoid doing that, as it’s little more of a hassle to do all the packing at the airport.
When I arrive at the start point, I usually arrange transportation for me, the bike, and gear to a local hotel where I spend the first night and assemble the bike there. I have on occasion arrived at an airport, assembled the bike there, and pedaled away. I cut the bike box up and the janitors took it away. No problems.
Hope this helps, Eddie. Shoot me a message if there is anything else I can do. Again, congrats on the new Divide. Happy riding,
Johnny