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Johnny Isaak | Adventure Cyclist

A compendium of adventure cycling chronicles, travel lore, tips, techniques, and tactics for the adventure cycling perplexed.

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Adventure Cycling

Divide Post Ride Reset

Divide Post Ride Reset

by Johnny Isaak ·

In between journeys or long stretches of travel is a great time to reconstitute and reset your bicycle and kit. It’s an excellent time to tweak your setup for better, improved pedaling down the road.

Bike and gear reconstitution and reset is an essential parts of any adventure, either after returning home or when taking an extended pause on the road. Once you’ve got your bike and gear reset, it’s important to tweak your rig a bit with a short trip or two before striking out for the horizon again to minimize future mechanicals. As Murphy once said, “If something can go wrong, it will go wrong, and often at the most inopportune time.”

After pedaling down the U.S. Pacific Coast last summer and getting resettled in the U.S., I’m preparing to perform a late winter/early spring deep maintenance service on my trusty Co-Motion Divide to reset it and my kit for future trips later this year. The Divide is a tried and true rig that has provided tens of thousands of trouble-free traveling kilometers across several countries and after five years is still going strong.

Proper care will keep the bike rolling along for many years to come. In addition to a comprehensive service, I’m using the opportunity to upgrade my setup with some of the things I’ve learned rolling down the Pacific Coast and across the shifting sands of Xinjiang in Western China.

Deep Cleaning, Inspection, and Maintenance 

First, I begin the rig’s reset with a detailed cleaning to remove any dirt or corrosion, which includes scrubbing away any rust and spot painting any chips on the frame. The same goes for any gear, which I did last summer at the end of the ride before storing. To get at all the dirt and corrosion, I remove all the panniers, bags, and racks. I also mark for ease of reassembly, all major bike components.

As part of the process, a detailed inspection follows the cleaning. Each piece and part is inspected and checked for serviceability. Zippers are cleaned and lubricated. The oil in the Rohloff hub is changed, and the axle seals are inspected for leakage.

The hub shifter and brake cables and housings are replaced and adjusted, which makes the bike feel like new. Brake discs are inspected, and pads are replaced if worn down. Otherwise, I will replace the pads just before any long trips. If worn, replace the tires, but I generally try to hold off until just before embarking on a long journey. The same goes for the tubes.

Zippers on the frame bag and pouches should be cleaned and lubricated. As extended exposure to the sun and dust will wear out. A good cleaning and lubrication keeps zippers operating smoothly and trouble-free.

I do the same cleaning, inspection, and maintenance for each piece of gear I carry with me. This includes laundering the sleeping bag, cleaning the stove, etc. It’s a pain dealing the unforced error of not checking your kit out before hitting the road and something breaks. I try to get good gear, so if it breaks or fails, it’s usually my fault.

A Little Help from My Friends

I do most of the maintenance on the Divide, but somethings, I leave to the professionals. A competent mechanic from a trusted local bike shop will true the Divide’s wheels true up the wheels and properly tension the spokes. He will also check the front and rear hub bearings too.

Both of the wheels are still running true, but a French cyclist on a sweet Koga sporting Rohloff hub, I’d met on the Pacific Coast, inspected the spokes on the Divide’s rear wheel, and thought they might not be up to tension. He told me he’d spoke with a rep at the Rohloff factory in Germany, who’d told him it was essential to ensure the spokes on the rear wheel were tensioned correctly to avoid breaking the flange on the hub. I checked out the spokes on the Kona’s rear wheel, and they were noticeably stiffer. So just to be safe, I’m going to get the wheels checked out too.

Sustain What Works

I’m sticking with my current rack and pannier set up. I’ve found them more functional than other setup configurations. I’m only making two changes with the Divide’s present luggage set up, which is replacing the Ortlieb Classic Roller Plus pannier I used on the front rack with a second pair of new Ortlieb Gravel Packs. The older Ortlieb’s are arguably nearing the end of their lives, and I got a sweet deal on a new pair of Gravel Packs. I couldn’t resist. Plus, all four panniers will match.

Running four bags creates a scaleable luggage system that can be sized to suit various requirements. If you are running light on a shorter trips, you can take only one or two bags. For more extended forays afield, especially if you are primarily camping and cooking, a second pair can be added to the front rack to accommodate the additional gear and spare parts.

Second, I’m swapping out the Porcelain Rocket Orbiter frame back with a Revelate Designs Ripio bag, once it returns from a zipper repair. Both are great bags. I just prefer a compartmented frame bag rather than a single compartment of the Ripio. The single compartment of the Orbiter tends to bulge out in the center when loaded. Plus it makes fishing out gear more difficult. The only drawback of the Ripio are the zippers. They are sturdy, but eventually wear out, which is something to consider.

Final setup for the U.S. Pacific Coast journey. Note the camera backpack and tripod mounted on the rear rack.

Change What Doesn’t Work

Like most other riders, I take continually note of things that didn’t work out so great and either replace or eliminate them during or after the trip. After numerous long rides and time in the saddle, I’ve assembled a pretty stout rig. Most of my kit works and is reliable, so it’s mainly a matter of deciding what capabilities are essential, and what ones I can go without, which changed from trip to trip. Gear replacements are less and less. 

Getting the ideal touring rig is an evolutionary process. Each adventure provides me with better ways of setting my bike and gear up. It’s always a balancing act between comfort and capability. I’m a firm believer that a lighter bike is more straightforward to ride than a heavier one. I spend most of my time on my bike and am willing to give up more creature comforts for a lighter bike, especially when there’s a lot of climbing involved. There’s nothing like grinding up a steep road on a heavily laden bike — not fun. I’m always looking for ways to trim the grams wherever possible. However, there is a point where one enters the zone of “stupid light.” Shedding weight is always a challenge. Take what you really need and disregard the rest. Don’t be afraid to adjust your load, for less or more, down the road. 

Adding New Gear

For new gear, I’m going to fabricate a new custom rain cover for the Divide and my photography gear. I’ve acquired a sewing machine, so I’m now able to make or modify kit to better suit my needs. More blog posts to follow. I’m also fiddling with the camera pouches a bit. I need a better set up to access my plate filters. I’ve upgraded my photography backpack and am installing a set of strap bands to tame loose strap ends. Plus, I’m going to tweak my hydration set up too. Building the “ultimate” expedition rig is an adventure in itself. 

Wrap-Up

If you take care of your bicycle and kit, they will take care of you. Take the opportunity and reset the bicycle and gear during downtime. You and your bike will thank you for it farther down the road.

 

Filed Under: Adventure Cycling, Bike Tagged With: adventure, adventure cycling, bicycle, bicycle touring, bicycle travel, Co-Motion, Divide, Rohloff, Schwalbe, Speedhub

Grateful for Travel

Grateful for Travel

by Johnny Isaak ·

The last day of 2019 has passed. Into 2020 we go. Looking back over the past five years, I’m so grateful for the travel I’ve had, the journeys I’ve been on, the adventures I’ve experience.

Exploring the water town of Xinchang, China

Oh, the places I’ve been. Looking back, Asia seems like a dream. It was. It was a dream come true. So glad I took the time to go. Five years abroad is a gift that will keep on giving in the years to come.

Cape Reinga, New Zealand

Time abroad has widened my perspective and deepened my insights about the world in which we live. The friends I’ve made, and the people I’ve met have made me a better person. My hard drives are filled with images; my journals are replete with experiences. I’ve come away changed for my peregrinating exertions.

Following China’s “Mother Road” (G312) along the Silk Route through the Hexi Corridor entering the Gobi Desert.

Commitments at home hold me close. Far-ranging forays lay on distant horizons. Hence, this is a time for reflection of journeys past and preparation for adventures to be had. There is still so much more to see.

Exploring quiet villages in Zhejiang Prefecture, China.

The dream is alive. Winding my way back home, future adventures still await. The time is to move boldly into 2020, to set the conditions for journeys at home and abroad. As Newton posited, “An object in motion tends to stay in motion…”

Sunset on the coast of Hokkaido, Japan

Adventure is out there for those willing to look for it, and time never waits. Many want to go, but few are willing to pay the price required to go. Nothing stands between you and your dreams but thin air and opportunity.

Peering into the endless sands of the Taklamakan.

Go while you have the chance. Get on your bike and ride. You won’t regret it. Pushing it off to “someday” is a risky business. Life is a fickle thing. The day may never come. Act while you have the opportunity. 2020 and years beyond are full of promise. Move forward with confidence in the pursuit of your dreams. Live the life you have always wanted.

A glance back after crossing the Golden Gate while returning to the U.S.

Filed Under: Adventure Cycling Tagged With: Asia, bicycle touring, bicycle travel, Cape Reinga, China, Co-Motion, Golden Gate, Hexi Corridor, Hokkaido, Japan, Morro Bay, New Zealand, San Francisco, Silk Road, Taklamakan, Zhejiang

A Brief Canticle to Travel in 2018

A Brief Canticle to Travel in 2018

by Johnny Isaak ·

Before I knew it, we’ve done another lap around the sun. It’s the last day of December, and a new year is just hours away. Sipping a Turkish coffee and peering out of the window of our high rise over the snow-covered roofs of Shanghai, I’m quietly watching the final moments of 2018 draw to a close.

Pudong from the Bund, Shanghai, China.

Before this year becomes a memory, it’s time to take one last glance over my shoulder and savor the journeys, the challenges, and the adventure of such an awesome year before jumping headlong into 2019.

The past twelve months have been four action-packed seasons of continual travel, questing, and adventure, both on and off the bike. It’s been a series of nonstop journeys all about getting out there. It was a year of spending time in incredible places, meeting new people, and by chance, a day catching up with one good friend.

Sunrise over Cook’s Cove, the East Cape, North Island, New Zealand.

Land of the Long White Cloud

Journey to the Southern Hemisphere. Cycling across New Zealand from Bluff in the south to Cape Rienga at the northern tip, a most incredible Kiwi adventure. The family riding for the first part, and solo on the second. Meeting the Maori of the Eastern Cape. Many nights spent camping under the Southern Cross and the Milky Way. Riding to beat the tide along Ninety-Mile Beach.

The Eastern Steppe, Inner Mongolia.

Wandering on the Eastern Steppe

Inner Mongolia, a land of endless grasslands under everlasing azure skies. Days spent chasing the light along meandering rivers. Tramping through the former lands of the mighty Mongols and Genghis Khan. Pausing on windblown hilltops to capture glimpses of herds of galloping ponies. Capturing faint shadows of the Golden Horde in the corner of my eye. Exploring the sidestreets of Russian border towns. Standing on the edge of the river peering into Siberia. Thinking about adventures for another day.

Uyghur Mosque, Kashir (Kashgar), Xinjiang, China.

The Old Silk Road

Xinjiang, a new frontier, and a land of many things. A Silk Road odyssey pedaling into the heart of Asia, a place I’m forever drawn to. Endless days in the saddle making passage in this mysterious land. The Pamir Mountains lie to the west, with the Kunlun forming a border to the south. The Tian Shan runs roughly through the center east to west, and the Altai Mountains are in the north. The Gobi guards the east and the Taklamakan lies in the south between the Kunlun and the Tian Shan — such a rugged land.

Kanas River, Altai Mountains, Xinjiang, China.

Cycling through the ancient oasis cities of Turfan, Kucha, Niya, Khotan, and finally to old Kashgar located on the eastern front ranges of the snow-capped Pamirs provided me with a fleeting glimpse into ancient trade route. Mud-walled homes and dusty palm trees among grape fields and nut tree orchards harkened back to a wilder time, one that still maintains its mystic aura today.

Turning north across the eastern reaches of the Tian Shan. Heading north into the Altai Mountains. Reaching the fringes of the boundless Kazak Steppes whetted my appetite for deeper forays to the stans of Central Western Asia. It’s a land of dense forests and grass-covered hills bisected by turquoise rivers. Lazy woodsmoke emanating from clusters of white yurts wanders up cold valley floors.

Little Dragon Lake on the Duku Highway in the Tian Shan Mountains, Xinjiang, China.

Duku Highway

Traversing the heart of the Tian Shan brought me in contact with welcoming Kazaks and Mongols still living in clutches of yurts scattered across the land. Many offering spicy lamb kababs and fresh naan to us as we passed by. Uyghur people inhabited the land to the south of the towering mountain range. Our time on the road was filled with seemingly unending days climbing and descending among massive snow-capped granite giants.

Taklamakan Desert, Xinjiang, China.

Sands of the Taklamakan

The Taklamakan, whose name means “Those who go in don’t come out.” Also referred to as “The Desert of Death,” the barren land is a sea of endless dunes circumscribed by the northern and southern routes of the Silk Road. Some of the dunes reach a height of a thousand feet. Few have dared to enter. Fewer still returned once they did. The wise and less foolhardy chose to go around, and still do today. Traveling in the shadows of Aurel Stein and Sven Hedin set me to wondering what they would think of Chinese Turkistan today with the endless stream of lorries transporting Chinese goods to the west, and the vast oil and gas fields tapping the rich underground resources.

Chaing Mai, Thailand.

Time in the Tropics

A couple of short trips to Chang Mai and Phuket in Thailand provided a much-needed respite from the cold winter weather. Thailand is filled with plenty of old temples to explore, cheap beer, savory fare, and friendly Thai people.

Friends remembered.

Friends Remembered

Time with a loyal friend, a trusty comrade of distant adventures, is among the most savored of moments. Time catching up on old times. Journeys remembered. However, time moves on, but old friends are not forgotten. Bonds remain across the span of time.

Into the Tian Shan.

The Dream is Alive

A new year is upon us. 2019 is here — the open road beckons. Many dreams still remain unrealized. Time is short, and I’m running behind. I long to feel the free wind blowing in my hair, to spend more time in incredible places. There are still place left to see through the lens of my camera. Lonely highways still yearn to be pedaled. See you out there. Cheers.

Filed Under: Adventure, Adventure Cycling, Inspiration Tagged With: adventure cycling, bicycle travel, bike travel, Eastern Steppe, Inner Mongolia, Kashgar, New Zealand, Shanghai, Silk Road, Taklamakan, Thailand, Tian Shan, travel photography, Xinjiang

Kiwi Odyssey: Bike Preparation

Kiwi Odyssey: Bike Preparation

by Johnny Isaak ·

Our Kiwi Odyssey in New Zealand is fast approaching, only three weeks away. We are busily reading ourselves and gear for what promises to be an excellent adventure.

Building on adventures to Japan last summer and fall, we’re making a few upgrades to our bikes in preparation for our Kiwi adventure. In conjunction with necessary bike inspections, routine maintenance, and tune-ups, each of us has made a couple of upgrades to our bikes.

[Read more…] about Kiwi Odyssey: Bike Preparation

Filed Under: Adventure Cycling, Bike Tagged With: adventure cycling, Almotion, bicycle travel, bikepacking, H-Bar, Jones Gnarwal, Jones Loop H-Bar, Kiwi, Mondial, New Zealand, Schwalbe

2017: Adventures Remembered

2017: Adventures Remembered

by Johnny Isaak ·

The steady patter of raindrops form into small rivulets and run down the window of our Shanghai apartment. Vacantly staring into the featureless mist and clouds wandering through the skyscrapers and high-rise buildings, my mind drifts to places far away. It’s an excellent moment to reflect on journey’s past. Just a few days on the backside of this year’s winter solstice, our adventures in Hokkaido, Kyoto, and Hong Kong seem so far away. A new year is only a couple of days away while 2017 draws to a close, and what an incredible year it was. Twelve months filled with continual cycling and travel adventures seemed to pass so quickly. Such is the nature of time when you’re having fun. Before we plunge headlong into another year, here are a few images to recount some of our travels and places we experienced during this great year.

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Filed Under: Adventure Cycling Tagged With: adventure cycling, Anhui, bicycle travel, China, Hokkaido, Huangshan, Hunan, Japan, Johnny Isaak, Kyoto, Pudong, Shanghai, Tokyo, Zhangjiajie

Late Autumn in Kyoto

Late Autumn in Kyoto

by Johnny Isaak ·

Adventure cycling in late autumn. We spent a few days exploring the hills and mountains surrounding Kyoto. Early in the morning, narrow urban streets led us out of the bustling city into the surrounding olive drab hills mottled with a smattering of yellows, oranges, and reds. Riding to catch the last vestiges of the autumn leaves before winter set in, we whiled away our days on two-lane roads along the edges of the Yamashiro Basin. We pedaled our way through thick pines, stands of bamboo, and groves of maple. 

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Filed Under: Adventure Cycling Tagged With: adventure cycling, autumn, bicycle travel, Japan, Kyoto

Exploring Kyoto Japan

Exploring Kyoto Japan

by Johnny Isaak ·

Autumn is an excellent time to explore Kyoto. The mountains and city parks are alive with fall color. The crisp, mild weather makes for pleasant cycling. Traveling by bike is the best way to experience this historic Japanese city. Both Kyoto and Osaka have vibrant cycling cultures. Kyoto is a city that gets around on bicycles. Riding here reminds me a lot of Amsterdam. Young and old are commuting on their bikes. 

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Filed Under: Adventure Cycling Tagged With: adventure, adventure cycling, bicycle travel, Co-Motion, Divide, Japan, Johnny Isaak, Kyoto, Osaka, touring

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